Extreme cold climbing presents unique challenges that require specialized gear, particularly when it comes to protecting your hands. The right gloves or mittens can make a significant difference in maintaining dexterity, warmth, and overall safety. This comprehensive guide will delve into the importance of choosing the right hand protection, key features to look for, an in depth review of top models available, and tips for selecting the best gloves or mittens for your needs.
The Importance of Proper Hand Protection in Extreme Cold Climbing
Why Hand Protection is Crucial
Hands are particularly vulnerable to cold temperatures and wind chill. Without proper protection, climbers can suffer from:
- Frostbite: Severe cold can lead to frostbite, where the skin and underlying tissues freeze, potentially resulting in permanent damage.
- Reduced Dexterity: Cold stiffens muscles and joints, reducing dexterity and making it difficult to grip climbing tools and ropes.
- Decreased Performance: Cold hands can diminish overall performance and increase the risk of accidents.
Gloves vs. Mittens: Understanding the Differences
- Gloves: Provide better dexterity, making them ideal for tasks requiring precision, such as handling ropes and carabiners. However, they may not offer as much warmth as mittens.
- Mittens: Offer superior warmth because fingers are together, sharing heat. They are typically better for extremely cold conditions but at the cost of reduced dexterity.
- Hybrid Models: Some gloves and mittens offer a combination of features, such as removable liners or lobster claw designs (three fingered gloves), aiming to balance warmth and dexterity.
Key Features to Look for in Gloves and Mittens for Extreme Cold Climbing
When selecting gloves or mittens for extreme cold climbing, several critical features should be considered:
Insulation
- Down Insulation: Provides excellent warmth to weight ratio but can lose insulating properties when wet.
- Synthetic Insulation: More resilient in wet conditions and dries faster. Common materials include PrimaLoft and Thinsulate.
- Fleece Liners: Often used as removable liners to add an extra layer of warmth.
Outer Material
- Waterproofing: Essential to keep hands dry. Look for materials like GoreTex or other waterproof membranes.
- Durability: High Quality outer shells made from materials like leather or reinforced nylon offer protection against abrasions and wear.
- Windproofing: Essential to prevent wind chill from penetrating the gloves or mittens.
Fit and Comfort
- Snug Fit: Ensures better warmth and dexterity. Loose gloves can lead to cold spots.
- Adjustability: Features like wrist cinches and gauntlet closures help keep snow and cold air out.
- PreCurved Fingers: Mimic the natural shape of the hand for better comfort and less fatigue.
Dexterity
- Articulated Design: Enhances movement and grip.
- Grip Enhancements: Reinforced palms and fingers with textured materials improve grip on tools and ropes.
Additional Features
- Touchscreen Compatibility: Useful for operating GPS devices or smartphones without removing gloves.
- Removable Liners: Offer versatility for varying conditions and ease of drying.
- Nose Wipes: Soft patches on the thumbs for wiping the nose.
Top Models of Gloves and Mittens for Extreme Cold Climbing
With these features in mind, let’s review some of the top models of gloves and mittens available today:
1. Black Diamond Guide Gloves
The Black Diamond Guide Gloves are a top choice for extreme cold climbing due to their robust construction and excellent insulation.
Key Features:
Insulation: Combination of PrimaLoft and boiled wool liner provides exceptional warmth.
Outer Material: Durable goat leather palm and Pertex Shield shell with a GoreTex insert for waterproofing.
Fit and Comfort: Pre Curved fingers and a four way stretch insert for enhanced dexterity.
Additional Features: Removable liner for versatility.
Pros:
Excellent warmth and waterproofing.
Durable construction.
Removable liner for easy drying.
Cons:
Higher price point.
Can be bulky for precision tasks.
2. Outdoor Research Alti Mitts
The Outdoor Research Alti Mitts are designed for the coldest conditions, offering superior warmth and protection.
Key Features:
Insulation: PrimaLoft Gold and Moonlite Pile fleece for maximum warmth.
Outer Material: Waterproof and breathable GoreTex insert with an AlpenGrip palm for durability.
Fit and Comfort: SuperCinch gauntlet closure and precurved construction for better fit.
Additional Features: Removable liner and idiot cords to prevent loss.
Pros:
Exceptional warmth.
Durable and waterproof.
Versatile with removable liner.
Cons:
Limited dexterity compared to gloves.
Bulky design.
3. Hestra Army Leather Heli Ski Gloves
Hestra Army Leather Heli Ski Gloves are known for their durability and balance of warmth and dexterity.
Key Features:
Insulation: GLoft polyester insulation and Bemberg polyester lining.
Outer Material: Army goat leather palm and windproof, waterproof, and breathable Hestra Triton fabric.
Fit and Comfort: Velcro closure and wrist cinch for a secure fit.
Additional Features: Removable liner and snow lock.
Pros:
Durable and well constructed.
Good balance of warmth and dexterity.
Removable liner for versatility.
Cons:
May not be as warm as mittens in extreme cold.
Leather requires maintenance.
4. Arc’teryx Alpha SV Gloves
The Arc’teryx Alpha SV Gloves are designed for high performance climbing in harsh conditions.
Key Features:
Insulation: PrimaLoft Silver and Gold Insulation for optimal warmth.
Outer Material: Fortius 1.0 softshell fabric with GoreTex insert for waterproofing and breathability.
Fit and Comfort: Ergonomic design with articulated fingers and wrist adjusters.
Additional Features: Removable liner and touchscreen compatibility.
Pros:
High dexterity and excellent fit.
Durable and waterproof.
Touchscreen compatible.
Cons:
Expensive.
Removable liner can be cumbersome.
5. Rab Alliance Mitts
Rab Alliance Mitts are highly regarded for their warmth and innovative design.
Key Features:
Insulation: PrimaLoft Gold insulation and a Pertex Quantum lining.
Outer Material: eVent waterproof and breathable membrane with Pittards Armortan leather palm.
Fit and Comfort: Drawcord gauntlet and wrist adjustment for a secure fit.
Additional Features: Removable liner and nose wipe.
Pros:
Superior warmth and waterproofing.
Durable construction.
Versatile with removable liner.
Cons:
Bulkier design reduces dexterity.
High price point.
Selecting the Right Gloves or Mittens for Your Needs
Choosing the right gloves or mittens involves assessing your specific needs and preferences. Here are some tips to help you make the best choice:
Assessing Your Needs
- Type of Climbing: Consider the type of climbing you do most often. Ice climbing requires more dexterity, while high altitude expeditions demand maximum warmth.
- Environmental Conditions: Think about the typical weather conditions you’ll face. Ensure the gloves or mittens can handle extreme cold, wind, and wet conditions.
- Personal Preferences: Consider your comfort preferences, such as fit, insulation type, and additional features.
Trying on Different Models
It’s essential to try different models to find the best fit and comfort. Pay attention to the following:
Fit and Feel: Ensure the gloves or mittens fit snugly without being too tight. Check for features like pre curved fingers and adjustable closures.
Ease of Use: Consider how easy it is to put on, take off, and adjust the gloves or mittens. Test the dexterity and grip by handling climbing gear.
Warmth: Compare the insulation performance of different models. Look for customer reviews and test results to ensure they meet your warmth requirements.
Reading Reviews and Seeking Recommendations
Reading reviews from other climbers can provide valuable insights into the performance and durability of different models. Seek recommendations from experienced climbers or retailers who specialize in climbing gear.
Budget Considerations
While it’s crucial not to compromise on quality, there are options available across different price ranges. Determine your budget and look for the best quality within that range. Remember, investing in high quality gloves or mittens can enhance your overall climbing experience and ensure your hands stay protected in extreme cold conditions.
Choosing the best gloves or mittens for extreme cold climbing is vital for maintaining warmth, dexterity, and safety. By understanding the key features and reviewing top models, you can make an informed decision that meets your specific needs.
Recap of Key Features
Insulation: Look for down or synthetic insulation for warmth.
Outer Material: Ensure it is waterproof, windproof, and durable.
Fit and Comfort: Choose a snug fit with adjustable features.
Dexterity: Consider precurved designs and grip enhancements.
Additional Features: Touchscreen compatibility, removable liners, and nose wipes can enhance usability.
Final Thoughts
Selecting the right gloves or mittens requires careful consideration of your specific needs and the conditions you’ll encounter. By understanding the key features and reviewing top models, you can make an informed decision that ensures your hands stay warm and protected during your extreme cold climbing adventures.
Remember, the best gloves or mittens are those that provide superior insulation, durability, and comfort, allowing you to focus
